Red Thread Lawn Fungus and How to Control It

red thread fungus in turf grassI’ve gotten several questions regarding lawn diseases over the last few weeks, so here is some info on a common one that appears quite often. The thing you need to remember with this lawn tip is that most turf fungus is NOT a major concern and will go away on it’s own with proper fertilization, watering and mowing on your part.

Red Thread lawn fungus appears in turf as small pinkish-red spots or patches, usually in later May and June when temps are high, and humidity is higher. Infected areas eventually turn light tan, and the leaf tips or margins may be covered with fine pink to red threads, giving the turf an overall pink coloration.
Red Thread, also known as “Pink Patch,”occurs in the cooler and more humid areas of the Pacific Northwest, Northeast, and Midwest. It is most severe on slow growing, nitrogen- deficient turfgrass during damp weather. We have had these exact conditions here in Chicago and Northwest Indiana these past few weeks of early June. (lots of rain, heat and humidity)

Susceptible turfgrasses include bluegrasses, bentgrass, fescues, bermudagrass, and perennial ryegrass. The fungus actually overwinters on the leaves and in the debris of previously infected plants. The leaves and leaf sheaths appear to be the only grass parts that become diseased.

Symptoms begin on the leaf blades as small, watersoaked spots that rapidly enlarge to cover a large portion of the leaf or the entire leaf sheath. As these spots enlarge, the tissue dries out resulting in gradual fading to a tan color that may encompass the entire leaf blade.

During extreme humidity, the leaves may be covered with a pink fungal growth, which along with the grass tissue, forms thread-like material upon drying out. The coral-pink colored thread-like material extends from the ends of leaf blades and may also be present on the surface of leaves.
Areas of diseases grass range from two inches to several feet in diameter. The outside edge of infected areas have an uneven or “ragged” appearance.

Conditions That Encourage Red Thread Disease
Development of the disease is favored by air temperatures in the 70 to 80 degree range, coupled with prolonged wet conditions (rains, heavy dew, and fog). Increased severity occurs on turfgrass growing in soil that lacks nutrients, especially nitrogen.
Control

My personal approach to controlling or eliminating Red Thread is 3-fold.

  • Keep lawn properly fertilized with slow-release nitrogen: I always recommend using Milorganite Organic Fertilizer. You should apply Milorganite in April and again in early June.
  • Secondly, a granular fungicide will help the situation if applied BEFORE symptoms appear. I apply 2 applications of granular fungicide per year; once in mid-May and again in later June.
  • Mow your lawn the proper way and catch clippings when disease is present. If you do water, water deeply and consistently twice per week. NEVER WATER AT NIGHT!

Another way to help fight Red Thread is by keeping your lawn’s thatch layer in proper balance. Heavy thatch layers are conducive to disease development. If thatch is thick or the soil is compacted, aerate for a healthier lawn. You can aerate your lawn at any time of the year as long as you can pull plugs.

 

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Those Red Seed Stalks in Your Lawn are NOT Always Bad!

It’s a common question from my customers: “What are those hundreds and thousands of reddish seed heads popping up in my lawn in May and June? Is it goosegrass, quackgrass or crab grass?”

The answer is: “no”

these seeds are not bad!

If you are seeing that many seed heads coming up, then rest assured that it is just your Kentucky Bluegrass or Ryegrass attempting to reseed itself naturally. (see the picture of Bluegrass in seed) The key to knowing that it is just your regular grass, is in the shear numbers of seeds (lots and lots), the timing of late May or early June, and the overall size and height of the seed heads. (quackgrass seed heads are very tall) Lawn Tips don’t have to be difficult! :)

In addition, if you put down a pre-emergent fertilizer product this year (like Scott’s Turfbuilder with HALTS) then you can rest assured that you will be about 90% free from problem grasses this year.

Many people want to mulch their clippings during this time of year thinking the grass seeds will help to thicken the grass, but, sadly, they are not “ripe” and will not grow. In fact, if you were to try and get viable seed from these seed heads, you’d need to let them grow for weeks, wither and dry up, and then harvest the seeds.

It is a good idea to mulch during this time anyway, because those seed heads contain lots of good, natural nutrients that we DO want to recycle back to the soil.

In a future writing, I will show you some undesirable grasses in lawns so you can identify and treat them properly should you come across them.

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